Start keeping track of your gas mileage so you can see how much you are paying and what you are or will be saving. Many cars will automatically tell you this in the digital display. If yours does not, the easiest way is to write down the amount of gas you put in at your next fill up. Then erase the odometer (press the single long button on your odometer display). When you get near empty, divide the miles driven by gallons used. This will give you your miles per gallon. This is good to know as it can tell you when something is wrong with your car. It will also show a noticeable improvement when you incorporate some of the tips below.

Make sure your car receives all necessary car care and treatment so it is functioning at its best. This will help ensure the best fuel economy as an ill tuned car can easily be running poorly and cost you 10-20% or more in additional fuel costs. Remember good car care goes a long way with fuel economy.

Slow down. That’s right, the National Institute of Highway Safety has stated that we get better gas mileage if we stick with the speed limit. As we increase our speed our fuel efficiency drops fast along with our driving safety. It is a big drop of as much as 10,20 even 30% all depending on how fast you go.

Remove excess weight from your car. Many of us have extra items in our trunk that can add considerable weight to the car and greatly reduce your fuel economy. This is a no-brainer.

Make sure your tires are inflated to the correct tire pressure. Over or under inflation can effect you fuel economy. Purchase a tire pressure gauge and use it at every fill up.

Turn off the air conditioning in town. When you are driving at slower speeds or with a lot of stop and go driving the air conditioning will greatly increase your fuel usage and decrease your mpg. At highway speeds researchers have found that the air turbulence caused by your windows being down actually reduces your gas mileage more than having the air conditioning on. For maximum cooling make sure you close your vents when you have the air on (many cars need you to reset this every time you turn on the car).

You could really save by finding alternative transportation – walking, ride the bus, car pool, or even riding a motorcycle (some get 50+ mpg). But that would greatly inconvenience most of us, so use the above tips, care care and treatments, and ideas to increase fuel efficiency and economy so that you will feel less of a pinch at the pump.

For the purpose of this article we interviewed numerous professional automotive detailers and similar professionals. We asked them what products they used and for tips that consumers could use. They pretty much came back with the same advice:

Properly clean the car: This is very important as the use of harsh, non-automotive products can actually harm your cars finish and make it wear quicker. Spray the car first and get it wet. Use the water to spray off dirt and other contaminates that will scratch your car if you immediately start using a sponge and water first. Also do not clean your car in the sun on a hot day. Do make sure you use warm water as it works best to loosen contaminates. After getting your car wet, use an automotive car wash solution and add to water in a bucket. Follow the directions on the bottle. Then wash the car. You will find it easier if you use a long handled wash brush (most auto parts stores have these). Be sure to wash and rinse in sections so the car wash soap doesn’t dry before being washed off. Then using terry cloth towels or chamois, dry the car off. Expert tip: use a squeegee. It is much faster and easier.

Remove stubborn contaminants: There will be dirt, bugs, tar, etc… that will be left after washing. There are many products that are made specifically for removing these items you’re your paint and car. The resounding answer from the experts was Meguiar’s bug and tar cleaner. Remove all the contaminants and follow the directions (some products can remove paint if not used correctly). Expert tip: 3M and other manufacturers make a plastic shield that can be applied over areas of your car’s paint like bumpers and behind the tires to protect from contaminants and rock chips.

Use a cleaner polish: This will remove any left over stubborn contaminates like ground in bug splatter on your painted bumper, acid rain etching, bird drop spots, and minor scratches. Use a circular motion, just like for wax. Follow the directions for that particular cleaner polish (some require a wet or damp applicator pad others don’t). Do the car one section at a time and use a clean section of cloth to buff once dry. Most cleaner polishes will dry to a whitish haze. Be sure to buff off all the haze and residue from the cleaner polish. When done the car finish will be really smooth. Expert tip: for deeper scratches, contaminants, etc… you can use an orbital buffer or polisher to apply the cleaner polish. Be careful and use low rpm’s (under 2000) anything above this and you risk burning the paint.

Apply several coats of polish or wax: There is a big difference between car wax and car polish. Car wax is usually a blend of carnauba and other waxes which will give a deep, wet look and new car shine. It comes in both a liquid and a paste, and it will not last as long as a car polish. Car wax is also less effective in high temperatures and can actually melt on hot areas like the hood. Car polish is a polymer blend usually with no wax. Car polishes can last 1 year between coats and is very durable protection for your paint. The experts recommend a car polish with Teflon in it for maximum protection and durability. The experts love the extra, deeper shine from car wax, but all agreed it was better suited for car shows. Whichever you choose, they are both applied the same way. Apply in a circular motion and let it dry to a haze. Then buff dry with a clean terry cloth or microfiber towel. Expert tip: Don’t use regular towels or diaper cloths as they can trap dirt particles and similar and leave scratch patterns in your finish. A microfiber cloth works best for removing dried car polish or car wax haze. 2 to 3 coats are recommended for maximum protection and shine. A good rule is to reapply the car polish or car wax at least 2 times per year. Expert tip: Apply car wax, not car polish (as car polish will leave streaks and smudges on glass), to your windows. Do one light coat and completely buff it off. The car wax will work better than the leading brand glass treatment for rain (it will also quite your windshield wipers).

Cleaning bugs off a car can be a lot of work. However, there is hope for you and your car yet. The first thing that you can do is to attempt to clean your car with warm water and car cleaner. Do not use dishwashing liquid on your car as it can cause streaks and take the wax and shine off of your car. Buy liquid wash that is specifically designed for cleaning cars.

Apply the cleaner using a soft cloth or a car cleaning sponge. Never use an abrasive brush or a sponge that has been used to clean other things as they can scratch the car paint. Apply the soap and warm water in a circular, scrubbing motion. Rinse when you are finished and apply the soap again if necessary.

For stubborn bug stains, you can use WD40 and a soft cloth, but it should be rinsed well after you have wiped off the bugs. WD40 can also be used as a preventative measure against bugs. Before going on a drive, spray WD40 on the grill and front of your car which will keep bugs from sticking to it. Rinse your car off as soon as you are finished your drive.

You can also search online for cleaners specifically designed to help with bug removal from vehicles. Make sure that you read reviews on the products before applying them on your car as they could do more harm than good if they are not a good quality project.

It is very important that you take the time to clean bugs off of your car. The more they sit there, the harder they will be to remove. Also, leaving bugs on your car can eventually cause your paint to chip off the car, which you definitely want to avoid.

Don’t hang up your car keys, afraid that your car will become a bug magnet. With a little bit of elbow grease, you can get the bugs off your car. Whether you use warm, soapy water or a special cleaner, make sure that you treat your car gently by applying it with a soft cloth. And remember, the quicker you can remove the bugs from the front of your vehicle, the better.

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Author: Tim Shank

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• Pressure — One-fourth of all cars and one-third of all light trucks have at least one substantially underinflated tire. Underinflated tires can cause blowouts and tire failure, which can lead to serious accidents. And appearances can be deceiving — a tire can lose up to half of its air pressure and not appear to be flat. Overinflation, on the other hand, puts unnecessary stress on tires, which can result in irregular tread wear. Check tire inflation with an accurate gauge. They can be found in any auto parts store and most service stations.
• Alignment — Improper alignment of your car’s steering mechanisms — including the front and rear tires and the steering wheel — can reduce the lifespan of your tires by thousands of miles. Have a tire dealer check the alignment if you notice:
  • Excessive or uneven tire wear;
  • The steering wheel “pulling� to the right or the left;
  • A feeling of “looseness� or “wandering�;
  • Steering wheel vibration;
  • The steering wheel is not centered when the car is moving straight ahead.

• Rotation — If you fail to rotate your tires, the front tires may last only 10,000 – 20,000 miles, while the rear tires will last 50,000 – 80,000 miles. Therefore, to achieve more uniform wear, experts recommend that you have your tires rotated every 6,000 miles. Refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual for correct pattern rotation. Common patterns include straight forward and straight back or crisscrossed.
• Tread — Advanced and unusual wear can reduce the ability of tread to grip the road in adverse conditions — especially on wet roads. When checking tires, look for uneven wear, high and low areas, bubbling or excessively smooth areas, as well as cuts or foreign objects in your tires.
• Tires must be replaced when tread has worn down to 1/16 of an inch. Quick tip: If you don’t have a measurement device handy, you can simply use a penny to check tread depth. Insert a penny with the head pointed down into the tread groove. If you can see all of Lincoln’s head, your tires need to be replaced.
• When shopping for new tires, it is usually best to replace all four at the same time — if you have been rotating your tires as recommended. You also should think about the type of driving you do most often and choose tires that are right for you.

Writing Credit: From Shell Answer Books ]]> http://www.caraccessories.com/wordpress/?feed=rss2&p=88 http://www.caraccessories.com/wordpress/?p=85 http://www.caraccessories.com/wordpress/?p=85#comments Mon, 12 Jun 2006 19:14:09 +0000 www.caracessories.com Maintenance http://www.caraccessories.com/wordpress/?p=85

Preventing a possible break down. Here is a simple check list to keep in mind to look for possible trouble that may lead to a break down . Electronic ignition and fuel injection systems on newer cars have virtually eliminated the “traditional” tune-up practices of adjusting carburetors, installing points, and setting the timing. There’s this perception that a car can be like a washing machine. That it will last for years without ever needing maintenance. But that’s not how it works in the real world.”  

One constant in the realm of evolving engine technologies is the spark plug. A critical link in any engine’s ignition system, misfiring or worn spark plugs can affect how efficiently a vehicle burns the fuel/air mixture, ultimately affecting engine performance. Cars in need of new spark plugs and a tune-up could experience measurable fuel economy improvements motorists have been reducing the miles-per-gallon they are obtaining by neglecting proper care of their cars. Preventive maintenance today will help your car last until tomorrow, since spark plugs are often victims of other problems in an engine, they can reveal valuable “clues” for evaluating engine performance. By examining the condition of the spark plugs, a professional mechanic can confirm a vehicle is running properly, or spot minor problems before they become major malfunctions.

Many other preventive, under- the- hood checks can be accomplished by the car owner at home without a mechanic. No matter how high-tech the engine, just a visual inspection of belts and hoses can reveal cracks, frays, leaks and bulges– sure signs of impending part failure. And drivers can easily monitor engine fluid levels by periodically checking to be sure oil, radiator, battery, power steering, brake and automatic transmission fluids are filled to recommended levels.

Regularly rotating the tires can also pay off big, not just in better handling and energy efficiency, but in safety, too. For instance, people often buy new cars right before they leave on vacation, then forget that those accumulated miles may warrant an oil change or tire rotation when their vehicle is only a couple of months old.

Today’s high-tech automobiles can accumulate a lot of mileage with very little evidence of wear and tear, making it easy for motorists to avoid looking under the hood while their vehicle is running well. But preventive maintenance can be a valuable investment, increasing fuel efficiency and saving the expense of emergency repair service, towing charges and even the inconvenience of a breakdown.

•  How vital is the “image” created by the vehicle parked in your driveway?

 

 

With the summer travel season on the horizon, and gas prices at near record levels, AAA anticipates more motorists will be stranded at the roadside this year because their vehicles have run out of gas. During the months of June, July and August, AAA expects to dispatch fuel to approximately 116,000 motorists whose cars and trucks have empty tanks. “Drivers need to keep an eye on the fuel gauge as well as the price at the pump,” says Margaret Pittelkow, AAA’s Managing Director of Roadside Assistance.

Running your vehicle’s fuel tank dry, says AAA, is not only inconvenient, but could present a safety hazard or lead to costly mechanical problems down the road.

“We realize many motorists are trying to be resourceful and delay fuel expenditures by driving their car until the fuel tank is nearly empty,” states John Nielsen, Director of AAA’s Approved Auto Repair program.

However, this can do more harm than good adds Nielsen. “For example, running your vehicle extremely low on fuel may cause sediment in the bottom of the tank to clog the fuel pump pickup, the fuel filter or even your fuel injectors.”
¼br /> Plus, when you do not maintain a reasonable minimum level of fuel, Nielsen says, it may cause the electric fuel pump inside the tank to overheat. The cost to replace this one component alone can be $500 or more in parts and labor.

To maximize fuel efficiency and prevent expensive breakdowns, AAA suggests motorists have their vehicle serviced regularly and maintain at least a quarter tank of fuel at all times.

Beyond proper vehicle maintenance, increasing fuel efficiency is all up to the driver says AAA. If you are willing to modify your driving habits, there are many “easy to apply” ways to increase your car’s fuel economy and save money on gas. All of these practical fuel-saving tips can be found in the AAA “Gas Watchers Guide” brochure, available at AAA club offices or by visiting www.aaa.com/news.

In addition to fuel-related roadside emergencies, this summer AAA will tow 3.4 million vehicles, respond to 1.3 million calls for a battery boost or replacement, assist 1.2 million people with a vehicle lockout and aid 1.0 million members with flat tires.

Leasing has two principal benefits:

• You drive a newer vehicle, which is always under warranty and seldom needs more than routine maintenance, such as oil changes.
• You can often get a larger, more luxurious, better-equipped car by leasing than you could as a straight purchase.

Having a better understanding of this alternative to buying should make it easier to decide whether leasing makes sense for you.

What You Should Know
The basic allure of leasing is that you don’t have to pay for or finance the entire cost of a vehicle. You’re simply paying for the use of that vehicle for a specific period, often two or three years but leases can run as long as five or six years. It’s not exactly renting, but the principle is similar.

Evaluating a lease is a matter of basic arithmetic. You need to consider four factors:

• Total initial payment, including Capital Cost Reduction (down payment) and any extra fees.
• Amount of each monthly payment.
• Number of months in lease terms.
• Possible additional charges at end of lease.

With a lease, your monthly payment is based on the difference between the vehicle’s transaction price (its “capitalized cost”) and what it’s estimated to be worth at the end of the lease term (the “residual value). This difference is financed at a particular rate of interest (which may be called a “lease rate,” “lease charge,” or “money factor”).

Typically, your down payment and monthly charges will be lower with a leased vehicle than one purchased outright. That’s why you can usually obtain a better vehicle for the same cash outlay.

You might need nothing more to secure a lease than the first month’s payment and a security deposit, which is usually equal to one monthly payment. Details vary sharply, though. Many lease deals require a substantial down payment and possibly additional charges as well.
Nothing affects lease terms more than your credit score. The alluring terms seen on TV commercials are available only to customers with a top-notch credit history. So-so credit means a bigger down payment and/or higher monthly payments. Poor credit generally means no lease at all.

In any case, when the lease period is up, you simply return the vehicle to a dealer without having to worry about a trade-in or selling it to a private party. Provided that the vehicle is returned in good condition, you owe nothing more; but you own nothing, either.
Most leases give you the option of purchasing the vehicle at the end of the contract at a predetermined price. If you really like the car, that’s a possibility. However, this is often more expensive over time than buying it outright.

Leasing is most beneficial to those who claim their car or truck as a business expense. Nearly all leasing expenses attributed to business purposes can be deducted. If you can deduct vehicle costs for business, consult a tax advisor to find out which is better for you.

Nothing is perfect, and leasing does have pitfalls. Unlike an outright purchase, you’ll have no equity in the vehicle at the end of the payment period. This virtually guarantees that you’ll be buying or leasing another vehicle once the lease is up. For consumers who are content with leasing, of course, that’s a benefit rather than an obstacle.

Also, leases come with strict mileage limitations, usually 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. If you exceed the total allowed miles by the time you return the vehicle, you’ll be assessed a penalty-which could be as stiff as 25 cents per mile. However, if you know or suspect that you’ll be putting on additional miles, you can usually purchase extra miles in advance at a discounted rate.

If you tend to be hard on your vehicles, purchasing is probably a better way to go. Why? Leased vehicles must be returned in excellent condition, without dents, deep scratches, window cracks, or torn upholstery, and with all accessories in working order. Otherwise, you’ll be assessed “excessive wear and tear” fees at the end of the lease period, and these can be steep.

If you’re uncertain about your financial future, leasing might not be right for you, either. Once you enter into a lease, it’s binding for the entire length of the agreement. Terminating the agreement is nearly always difficult and expensive. If you decide you want to get out of a lease in order to lease another vehicle, you might be able to have the first lease “bought out” as part of the deal. If you simply want out, you will probably be assessed a prohibitively hefty termination fee.

Keep in mind that when you lease a vehicle, just as when you buy one, its cost is negotiable. The lower the total price, the lower your lease payments will be.

To keep costs down, choose a model that has a higher resale value. Consult a used-car pricing guide to see how well a vehicle’s value has held up historically, or ask the loan department of your bank or a leasing company to compare new vehicles’ residual values.

Many libraries carry the Residual Percentage Guide issued monthly by Automotive Lease Guide. Charts estimate how much each vehicle will be worth after specified periods of months, as a percentage of the car’s original selling price. This gives a clear picture of which vehicles hold their value best and are therefore prime candidates for leasing. Avoid those with low residual value, because lease terms are certain to be more costly.

If a manufacturer is trying to promote a specific model, its lease terms might be even more favorable. A few years back, manufacturers were subventing leases, absorbing part of the cost by setting artificially high residual values in an attempt to get more vehicles into shoppers’ hands.

This tactic resulted in substantial financial losses, so automakers nowadays are more wary about residuals and subvention of this sort is less common. However, advertising campaigns often stress the lowest-cost lease deals, some of which are based on tempting interest rates.

Read the Fine Print
Federal regulations require certain facts to be disclosed on lease agreements, including the capitalized cost, interest rate, up-front fees and taxes, any credit provided for used-car trade-ins, the vehicle’s residual value and the amount to be depreciated. Most leases contain an acquisition fee, which typically ranges from $250 to $450, and a disposition fee, which likely adds another $300 or $400. A contract may also include a purchase-option fee that allows you to buy the vehicle at the end of the lease, for a predetermined price.

Look for a detailed description in the contract of what constitutes “excessive wear and tear,” and some indication of what you could be charged for this at the end of the term.

If it’s not already included in the lease package, you will be offered “gap insurance” (guaranteed asset protection). This covers the remainder of your lease payments if your leased car is stolen or totaled in a wreck. Even if it’s not required, some lessees feel more comfortable if they have a “gap” policy in effect.

Most leases prohibit customizing vehicles with aftermarket accessories such as vinyl tops, exterior trim, and even trailer hitches. Ask before you install such items.

The consumer typically pays for sales tax, annual vehicle registration fees and taxes, maintenance and insurance. All of this should be spelled out in the contract, but find out which portions will be included in your monthly payments and which ones you’ll have to pay separately. Some states and municipalities permit dealers to charge specific extra fees, which may not be negotiable. All others can be challenged.

Where to Look
Just as it pays to shop when you’re buying, also shop around for a lease. Make a few dealers compete for your business. One dealer might waive the down payment or cut the monthly payment to win your business. Others won’t budge.

Make sure you compare costs for identical vehicles. A lease with low monthly payments and a hefty down payment might cost more overall than one with higher monthly payments but no money down. Do the math, and consider the total amount that you’ll be paying-both now and over the lease term.

Naturally, new-car dealers are a logical place to start your shopping, but there are alternatives. Leasing agents or brokers that lease several brands might beat the deal from the new-car franchise down the street. Some banks and credit unions also offer consumer leases.
If you lease from a dealer who uses an in-house finance company like Ford Credit or GMAC, at the end of the lease you generally can leave the car with any dealer who sells the same brand. This may not be the case if you lease from an agent or broker, or if a dealer uses an independent leasing company. Be sure to ask, just to be prepared.

Is Leasing Making a Comeback?
More than one-third of vehicles were leased in the late 1990s. Lease penetration ran close to 30 percent several years ago, said Tom Kontos, vice-president of industry relations and analytical service at the ADESA wholesale auction chain. Early in this decade, low-interest and zero-interest financing helped steer more customers away from leasing and into purchasing. “As interest rates start to rise,” Kontos said, “people will start to look seriously at leasing.”

Leasing “doesn’t look like it’s going to go back to what it was in the ’90s,” said Art Spinella, president of CNW Marketing, a research organization. Early in 2004, consumers were leasing only 19 percent of vehicles. By summer, lease penetration reached 21.5 percent. All manufacturers are “trying to edge back into leasing,” Spinella said, “to feed the certified programs” with used cars several years down the line.

In the past few years, according to Spinella, the prime candidates for leasing have been luxury and near-luxury models, including luxury SUVs. Lately, however, leasing is “starting to drift back into the mainstream.” Dealers like leasing because the customer loyalty rate is three times as strong with lessees.

Definitions of Lease Terms

Acquisition Fee: A charge for processing a lease. Even though this seems like a nonessential fee, it may not be negotiable.

Capitalization cost (cap cost): The total price of the vehicle, which the lessor uses to calculate the amount that the customer will be paying. This is equivalent to the purchase price of a vehicle that’s sold.

Cap Cost Reduction: Equivalent to a down payment on a purchased vehicle, this is the amount that you pay when signing the lease, in addition to any separate fees that are assessed. When you pay a larger sum initially, monthly payments will be lower. A smaller cap cost reduction means a higher monthly payment. The value of your trade-in (if any) can be applied as part of this amount.

Closed-End Lease: A lease that fixed the vehicle’s residual value initially, stating it in the contract. Most vehicle leases are closed-end, which means the customer won’t owe an additional sum at the end of the term if the car turns out to be worth less than anticipated.

Dealer Participation: An amount that the dealer contributes to lower the total price of the vehicle, in an attempt to secure the customer’s business. Any dealer contribution is applied to the cap cost reduction.

Depreciation: The amount by which a vehicle loses its value over a specified period of time, which is the difference between its original price and its residual value later. No specific figure for depreciation appears in lease contracts, but it’s taken into account in setting residual values.

Disposition Fee: An amount to be paid at the end of the lease term, to cover costs of preparing the returned vehicle for sale.

Early Termination Fee: A penalty assessed if you choose to end the contract earlier. Lessors justify this because depreciation is highest in the early portion of a vehicle’s life, so a prematurely terminated lease cuts heavily into their earnings. The penalty is likely to be hefty.

End-of-Lease Purchase Price: An agreed-upon price that you will pay when the lease is up, if you choose to keep the vehicle.

Excess Mileage Charge: A per-mile amount charged if you drive the vehicle more than the stated maximum, which is typically 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year. A charge of 15 cents per additional mile is typical, but it could get be higher. If you expect to drive farther than the contract allows, you can usually negotiate a lower figure for the excess miles.

Excess Wear-and-Tear: If the vehicle is returned in good condition, there should be no extra charge. A certain amount of wear-and-tear is permitted, but significant body damage or evidence of improper maintenance will trigger additional sums to be paid for necessary repairs.

Gap Insurance: In most cases, your regular auto insurance covers the leased vehicle. If the vehicle is totally wrecked, however, it could be worth less than an insurer will pay. Gap insurance covers the difference between the cash value of the vehicle and what you still owe on the lease contract. Some leases include this is in the contract.

Lease Term: A period of months during which you have use of the vehicle and will pay agreed-upon monthly payments. Lease terms of 24 and 36 months are most common, but 12-month leases and 60-month contracts can be obtained.

Lessee: The person who leases a vehicle from a dealer or other organization.

Lessor: The dealer or other organization that leases a vehicle to a customer.

Money Factor: You probably won’t hear or see this term, but it’s the cost of money, equivalent to an interest rate.

Monthly Payment: Amount that you are required to pay to the lessor or its agent every month, through the lease term.

Purchase Option: The right to buy the vehicle that you’ve leased, at the end of the lease term, for a stated price.

Residual value: A prediction of what a vehicle is likely to be worth as it ages, usually expressed as a percentage of its original price. Residual values may be supplied for vehicles that are 24, 36, or 48 months old.

Security Deposit: A deposit, usually refundable, required before the lease contract takes effect.

Subvented Lease: A lease with favorable terms, due to a manufacturer’s decision to absorb a portion of the cost. The manufacturer “subsidizes” part of the total price, by use of a special incentive-a low interest rate, higher-than-normal residual value, or a discount provided by the manufacturer.

Automobiles are sizeable investments. As a car becomes older, its maintenance becomes increasingly important. There are many tools that every auto owner should have. Auto shops can sometimes charge exurbanite amounts for a simple fix that could have been done at home for much cheaper. Having the proper tools and knowledge will allow any auto owner to save money, learn more about their automobile, and maintain their car.

1. Every auto owner should have a jack and jack stands. When working on a car, more often than not, the car must be elevated. Simple procedures like rotating tires can be done at home with the help of a Jack. Additionally, all car owners should have a jack in their car with them wherever they go. In the unfortunate event of a flat tire, having a jack and a spare tire can lead to a simple tire replacement. In a garage, having a powerful jack and strong jack stands makes it possible for an auto owner to reach every point underneath the car and thus solve problems more efficiently.

2. One of the most important car maintenance practices is the oil change. To maintain an automobile, the oil should be changed once every 3,000 miles. Quintessential to a successful oil change is having an Oil Wrench that takes the oil filter off and allows the oil to be changed expediently. Without an oil wrench, an auto owner may be forced to take their car to an auto shop and overpay for a simple oil change.

3. Often when dealing with parts of the engine, or the hard-to-reach spots under the hood, proper tools are required. A 3/8-inch Socket Set can allow an automobile owner to loosen and subsequently tighten a wide variety of bolts. Different extensions allow the auto owner to obtain the best angles for torque and therefore make auto jobs quite a bit easier.

4. When changing oil, having a funnel, some rags, and a bucket is very helpful. Once again, the oil change is one of the most important maintenances for a car, and it can be done easily by anyone. However, many people do not have the proper tools or knowledge for a successful oil change. Having a funnel can also be useful when refilling any other fluids in one’s car. The funnel serves to make sure that fluids do not get over filled, which can lead to significant problems.

5. Finally, every auto owner should have a pair of solid vice grips. Some times a part will just not come loose. Other times, a car part may not seem to be tight enough despite one’s best efforts. Vice grips can hold a wide variety of car parts and allow the user to obtain more leverage for either tightening or loosening a part. When encountering a part that will simply not come loose, many auto owners will give up and take their car to a shop. Having vice grips can help one to avoid this problem.

Unfortunately, there is no car in existence that doesn’t require constant maintenance. However, with the right tools, anyone can fix minor problems and maintain his or her automobile without the assistance of an auto mechanic. The right tools can lead to a longer last vehicle, and large cost savings.

Mike Scurria writes about automotive tools.