Simply Ways To Deal With Car Tro

Simply Ways To Deal With Car Trouble On The Road

Written by Manny Gianakakos

I turn the key and nothing happens. What should I do now ?

First check your battery by turning on your headlights. If they work and don't go dim when you try to start again, turn them off and jiggle the gear shift in Park or Neutral as you turn the key. (Make sure the emergency brake is on.) The problem may simply be a loose Neutral safety switch.

If the lights go dim when you try to start, you may have a loose cable connection or corroded battery terminals. (Caution: whenever you work on or near the battery, wear safety goggles.) To check for a loose connection, grasp the cable clamp and try to twist it slightly. If it gives at all, it needs to be tightened.

To clean corroded connections, work first with the negative (grounded) terminal. Loosen the clamp bolt with an adjustable or open-end wrench, pry the clamp apart with an insulated screwdriver, and lift the cable off. Always keep the negative post disconnected until you've finished the job. Scrape clean the contact surfaces with a knife, nail file, or emery board. Then fasten the cables back (negative post last) so firmly that you can't turn them.

If your lights still go dim, you probably have a low battery. And if they never lighted at all, your battery is probably dead or disconnected. You'll need a jump-start.

What's the right way to get a jump-start ?

Have good jumper cables, for one thing. Good cables have sturdier jaws. Always keep the negative and more strands of better-conducting post disconnected until you've wire. If you have a cheap set, you can improve them by going under the plastic sheath where the cable meets grip and squeezing the connection tight with a pair of pliers.

Get the two cars nose to nose, or parallel but not touching. Place both cars in Park (Neutral for cars with manual transmission), engage the emergency brake, and turn off the ignitions and all accessories. Be sure both batteries have the same voltage. 1. Take either red jaw and attach it to the dead battery's positive(+) terminal. 2. Connect the other red jaw to the positive terminal on the good battery. 3. Now take one of the black jaws and attach it to the good battery's negative (-) terminal. 4. Attach the other black jaw to an unpainted metal surface under the stalled car's hood that is not near the carburetor or battery and is not aluminum.
Make sure the cables are clear of any fans or belts. Start the booster car, then try to start the stalled one. Still no luck? Let the booster car's engine run for five minutes with the cables connected. Now try again. Remove the clips in reverse order - last on is first off. Keep the motor running. If the motor is turned off too soon, the battery may lose its charge again. Squeezing tight the place where cable meets jaw can improve the connections on a set of jumper cables..

My engine turns over but it won't start, What should I do ?

Your car lives on a mixture of fuel, fire (sparks), and air. If it won't go, it's not getting one of these three key ingredients.

Are you out of gas? If that's not the problem, maybe you've flooded the engine. Floor the gas pedal for 10 seconds (do not pump it) as you turn the ignition. If the engine still doesn't start up, tap the carburetor lightly near the gas line (area 12, below) with pliers or a screwdriver handle. If the needle valve is stuck, preventing gas flow, this tapping should free it.

(Note: If your car has a fuel injection system, it won't have a carburetor.)

With the engine off, check for loose or broken spark plug wires. Make sure that the wires running from the distributor cap to the spark plugs are pushed down securely at each end (see diagram areas 7 and 10).

You've checked the fuel and fire -- that leaves air (actually, the air/gasoline ratio). If your car has a carburetor, remove the top of the air filter (15) and look at the chock plate (14). If it is stuck open or shut, jiggle the plate so it moves freely again. If your car still won't start, it's time to get help.

The best way to recognize what's under the hood is to read your owner s manual. With the manual's help, familiarize yourself with these parts: 1. Radiator 2. Radiator cap 3. Battery. 4. Battery cables. 5. Alternator 6. Upper radiator hose. 7. Distributor 8. Fan belt 9. Oil dipstick. 10. Spark plugs. 11. Spark plug wires 12. Gas line. 13 Carburetor 14. Choke plate. 15. Air filter 16.Transmission dipstick. 17 Brake fluid reservoir

What's the safest way to change a tire ?

Your owner's manual is the best source of information on how to do this. Here are a few general rules.

Park on level ground, away from oncoming traffic. Always block the wheels at the end of the car opposite the end with the flat, to keep the car from rolling. Other steps to take before you jack up the car: Put the car in Park (or in gear if you have manual transmission). Make sure the emergency brake is on. Take out the spare and the jack. Take off the flat tire's hub cap. If you have special wheel covers, consult your owner's manual. Loosen each lug nut one turn.

Finally, you're ready for the jack. The flat tire should be jacked at least two or three inches off the ground. Remove the lug nuts and put them in the hub cap so you won't lose them). Pull off the flat tire. Put the spare tire on, then put the lug nuts back on. Tighten them, but not all the way. Jack down the car until the tire is just touching the ground. Now tighten the lug nuts as tight as you can: One, then the one opposite it, and so on. Finish lowering the car. Remove the wheel blocks and put your tools and hub cap away. Have the flat fixed or replaced as soon as possible. Driving without a spare is asking for trouble.

Water got under my hood ! What should I do ?

If your car has stalled, take a dry cloth and wipe off the spark plugs, wires, and other parts around the distributor (area 7). Carefully wipe each wire dry, top to bottom. Try to start. If the engine still won't cooperate wait 30 minutes or so for the parts to dry and then try again.

Is a good emergency repair kit expensive ?

The total cost of all the items you see pictured below is about $65. Save yourself a towing charge or two and the kit already pays for itself.

Emergency items every car should have: Dry cloth, all-purpose wire (to lash down a sprung trunk lid or whatever), jumper cables, two insulated screwdrivers (one standard, one Phillips head), adjustable wrench, insulated pliers, jug full of water, safety goggles, flashlight, duct tape, spare fan belt (even if you can't put it on yourself, you'll have the right size when help arrives), siphon pump, at least one quart of oil, and flares.

Which warning lights should I really pay attention to ?

All of them! Ignore these lights and you may wind up with repairs costing thousands of dollars. Here's a phrase to help you remember what to do when a warning light glows red: STOP, A-OK. Each letter stands for a word: Stop for Temp. or Oil Pressure - Alt. OK to keep driving. A red alternator light - sometimes marked with a battery symbol or "Amp" simply means your battery is not being recharged. Turn off all electrical equipment (except headlights if you need them) and continue driving to the nearest service station. Don't turn off the engine until you get help - starting is a heavy drain on the battery.

(The brake and "Check Engine" warning lights are like the alternator light: they all mean "Get to a service station:' not "Stop now." Just make sure your emergency brake is completely released.) If your oil pressure light comes on, take your foot off the gas, coast somewhere to park, and turn off the ignition. Check the oil dipstick. If you're low, add oil, start up, and watch the wafting light. If it doesn't go out within 30 seconds, turn the engine back off and get help. Otherwise, drive slowly to a service station and make sure your oil is back to the right level.

Looks Like my engine is overheating. What am I supposed to do ?

If the red temperature light flickers on and off, turn on the heater, which will draw heat away from the engine. Continue driving only if the light stays off.

If it stays on, pull over safely and turn off the engine. Look for a broken fan belt or a leak in your heater or radiator hoses. If the leak is under a clamp, tighten the clamp with a screwdriver. (Note that some spring clamps cannot be tightened.)

If you see a small leak in the hose, allow enough time for the engine to cool (usually a full 90 minutes). Put on goggles and cautiously remove the cap. Tape the hose leak with strong duct tape, Next, with the engine running, add water to the radiator. Replace the cap but leave it one notch looser: a tight cap will pressurize the system and blow open your patch. Drive slowly to the nearest service station. if there's no sign of a leak, let the engine cool. When the radiator cap is cool enough to handle easily, cautiously remove it and add water. Drive on slowly until the red warning light appears again. Stop for 30 minutes of cooling. With luck, you should get a mile or more of driving for each 30 minutes of cooling.

If all else fails, what then ?

Don't overlook the advantages of an auto club. In return for an annual membership fee, they will guarantee certain kinds of emergency assistance when and where you need it.

Services and benefits of a good motorists' organization should include emergency road service, lock and key service, and towing; toll-free emergency number; travel service maps and insurance; credit card protection; and bail bond service.

Courtesy Shell Oil